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The remarkable beauty of its varied topography combined with its strategic
location relative to the state’s capital city and interstate
highways have made Glastonbury the cream of the "east of the river" communities.
Encompassing 52 square miles, it is also the state's most expansive
municipality.
During the American Revolution, Yale University held classes here. Noah
Webster once taught in a one-room schoolhouse here. Lincoln's secretary
of the Navy, Gideon Welles, was born here. And the J. B. Williams Co.
produced their world famous shaving lotions "Aqua Velva" and "Lectric
Shave" here. Glastonbury also hatched Arbor Acres, one of the world's
largest poultry producers, gave birth to the delicious Hale peach, and
once grew some the world's finest cigar tobacco.
Historically, Glastonbury comprised three principal villages—Glastonbury
Center, South Glastonbury, and East Glastonbury—each community
centered on both agriculture and industry. The Connecticut River's local
tributaries—the Salmon, Hubbard, and Roaring Brooks—provided
waterpower for early manufacturing and the fertile river bottomland and
the highlands were conducive to farming. The river itself was a vital
artery to the rest of the region, state, nation and the world.
Originally part of Wethersfield, Glastonbury incorporated in 1693. With
a current population of approximately 32,500, the town has seen a consistent
average annual growth of about 15percent since the 1970s, and anticipates
that trend continuing with a burgeoning housing market in the east and
south on former woodlands, farms and orchards. Today, Glastonbury hubs
of activity reflect its historic roots: Somerset Square and the Town
Center in the north, South Glastonbury village and satellite commercial
areas in East Glastonbury.
Touring the Town
Enter Glastonbury from Wethersfield on Route 3, and The Shops at Somerset Square
on Glastonbury Boulevard serve as a sophisticated contemporary gateway. One of
America's first "lifestyle centers," with nearly half a million square
feet of upscale retail space housed in a complex of classically-inspired architecture,
the square was designed in the late 1980s by Robert A.M. Stern, now Dean of the
Yale School of Architecture. Its layout essentially creates a traditional-style
town square—for a town that never had one. It ingeniously integrates automobile
traffic through a stylish mall setting for easier access to its trendy shops,
boutiques, and restaurants.
The 150-room Hilton Garden Inn, the town's first hotel, opened in 2004 adjacent
to Route 3 and "the Square." Next-door is the Hilton's 136-unit Homewood
Suites, a residential-style hotel for extended-stay travelers.
Drive east on the boulevard to the corner of Main Street, where Griswold Mall
has Bertucci's on one flank and Garden of Light health food store on the other.
In between is Center of the Plate Market, a narrow, old-fashioned grocery specializing
in Coleman natural meats and fresh seafood, with supplies of Colorado buffalo
meat that arrive every other Saturday. This is also a great spot for prepared
take-out meals.
Heading south toward Glastonbury Center, Main Street is a mixed commercial thoroughfare,
highlighted by Katz's Ace Hardware, a veritable town landmark founded in 1920
by Joe and Ben Katz. Today, third-generation owner, Dick Katz, and his staff
are the definition of customer service in the recently expanded store that preserves
a refreshing small-town ambience.
The stately Wells-Turner Library, a tree-shaded park and fountain and the historic
Gideon Welles House, now Emmy Lou's Ltd., a unique gift boutique, anchor Glastonbury
Center. The Center today thrives with dozens of businesses located in four plazas
along Hebron Avenue and Welles Street.
A modification of zoning regulations to allow outdoor dining has resulted in
an influx of pedestrian traffic to such alfresco venues as Daybreak Coffee, Adriatik
Family Restaurant, and the Diamond Restaurant and Grille. The Diamond, a venerable
Glastonbury watering hole, has refurbished its bar and expanded its dining area
to accommodate the increased demand for its famous burgers, sandwiches, and seafood.
Main Street—south of the center—is the beginning of the Historic
District, with handsome 18th and 19th century homes built by some of the town's
most prominent early families. On the corner of Hubbard Street, the Glastonbury
Historical Society (in what was the original Town Hall) features exhibits that
celebrate the town's Native American, agricultural and industrial heritage. Behind
it, the original Town Green is the site of the Art Guild's annual art shows and
the town's Concerts on the Green, while the adjacent Green Cemetery has headstones
dating back to the 1600s.
Two miles south, Main Street merges with Route 17 on its way to South Glastonbury
village. On the right, the Connecticut Audubon Society presents nature programs,
lectures and music. It's appropriately situated at the entrance of Earle Park,
48 acres of woods and trails along the Connecticut River. Just a stone's throw
away is the Cider Mill, one of the country's oldest mills. It's open only in
the fall to sell local fruits, vegetables, cider, and its tasty apple fritters.
Less than a mile down the road is Berruti's Harvest House, one of several popular
farm markets along Route 17 in South Glastonbury. Ensconced at the foot of the
hilly, third-generation farm, the market is a stunning tableau of colors: field
fresh vegetables, fruits from the orchards, including its own specially cultivated
white plums and white peaches, all accented by a palette of fresh flowers. Berruti's
is one of the few orchards that still grows rare heirloom apples such as Northern
Spy and Black Twig.
Further on, just before South Glastonbury's village center, the Welles-Shipman-Ward
House, built in 1755, "possesses exceptional architecture" according
to the U.S. Department of the Interior. Now owned by the Historical Society,
the house, its 18th-century-style herb gardens and vintage barns are open to
visitors.
South Glastonbury has been described as the perfect pedestrian village—a
mix of historic and contemporary buildings with sidewalks that make any of its
attractions easily accessible. Among the popular spots, there are three historic
churches, Main and Hopewell Restaurant, well known for upscale dining and tasteful
jazz; Harpo's Bakery, featuring fresh baked breads and desserts; Gardiner's Market,
an updated small-town grocery operation that's brimming with fine products and
a personal touch that emanates from its long family tradition; and Char Koon,
whose creative Pacific Rim cuisine has earned this cozy hide-away a well-deserved
regional status. At the southernmost tip of the village, in what was once the
venerable and fondly remembered Brookside Restaurant, is the "new kid" on
the block, Anna's on Main, which has quickly established a flock of loyal fans.
Behind Anna's, above the village, Cotton Hollow Preserve is a hiker's delight,
with paths winding along boisterous Roaring Brook to the impressive ruins of
what was once a vibrant 18th and 19th century industrial community. Waterfalls
with pools of cool, sparkling water often draw a skinny-dipper or two on a hot
summer's day.
From Main Street, a right on Water Street leads west on a scenic road toward
the Glastonbury Hill-Rocky Hill Ferry landing, and the Seaboard Marina on the
Connecticut River, home of the Glastonbury High School rowing team. Along the
way, the horsy set struts its stuff amid the lovely meadowlands that provide
a perfect setting for expansive equestrian centers.
Heading east out of the village, Hopewell Road winds up through the hills to
Chestnut Hill Road and on into East Glastonbury. Several spots offer a breathtaking
view of the Connecticut River. At the junction of New London Turnpike, Chestnut
Hill Commons includes the Country Store that happily advertises live bait, crawlers
and worms among its other wares, and Lottie's Country Kitchen, renowned for its
robust breakfasts and lunches. Just down the pike in Buck's Corners Plaza, Glastonbury
Gourmet provides prepared dinners, private dining, cooking classes and demonstrations.
Drive down Quarry Road, and take a left on Manchester Road to Hebron Avenue where
a few decades ago this crossroads was a remote outpost with little more than
a gas station and the historic Buckingham Congregational Church. Today there's
a plaza anchored by Highland Park Market, the famous gourmet food emporium that
originated in Manchester.
From here, travel west on Hebron Avenue, toward Main Street and Route 17. On
the corner of Village Place are the Addison Village Shops, which include Ming
Bao Chinese Restaurant and Tribeca Café where mouth-watering soups and
sandwiches have touched off word-of-mouth raves. Thistle Needleworks is a homegrown
success story that specializes in threaded-needle arts—crewel, counted
cross-stitch, needlepoint, etc— and presents a dazzling array of materials
and services.
Glastonbury's appeal today stems from its ability to blend its abundant supply
of country chic with a steady infusion of cutting-edge contemporary. While residents
accept the inevitability of continued development, they have never been shy about
saying "enough is enough" when it comes to preserving its natural assets.
Much of the town's recent efforts have been directed toward developing amenities
for its senior citizens and enhancing the enduring appeal of its riverfront.
By Kevin Hinchey
Photo by Al Ferreira
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