The central portion of the river valley is dominated by Middletown, which has long been the economic and business center for this part of the river. Its influence reaches down into the lower valley as well. Portland, Cromwell and East Hampton are river towns that, to varying degrees, have always been bedroom communities of Middletown, largely depending on it for most of their commercial and cultural life. Middletown is home to Wesleyan University, considered one of the nation’s top liberal arts schools since the Methodist Church founded it in 1831. With more than 3,000 students and 1,000-plus faculty and staff, Wesleyan continues to play an important role in the culture and economy of Middletown and surrounding towns.

With a population of more than 40,000, and large commercial and manufacturing infrastructure, Middletown developed as a busy river port in the 1750s because its wide, deep harbor was able to handle large boats carrying cargo from the mouth of the river.
Unlike many small cities in the northeast, Middletown has been able to reinvent itself through three major stages of economic development. The primary reason is its location.

By the early 18th century Middletown had become one of the largest and most prosperous settlements in Connecticut, with primary economic strength coming from its position as a central river port. More than a third of its residents were involved in the river-based economy as merchants, traders, shipbuilders and their employees.

Strained American-British relations during the next century brought trade restrictions that began a decline in the river economy, and Middletown turned to gun production as a new source of business. Many gun manufacturers in the area supplied pistols to the United States government during the War of 1812.

During the mid-19th century manufacturing replaced the river trade as Middletown’s economic base. But industrial growth was stunted when the major railroad system, key to industrial expansion, was built to the west between New Haven and Hartford, severing Middletown from Connecticut’s next manufacturing era. Hartford and New Haven became the state’s principal manufacturing centers while Middletown’s economy languished and its importance as a commercial center steadily diminished.

In its industrial era, Middletown attracted immigrant laborers to fill factory jobs. First the Irish, and then large numbers of Italians arrived. Many of the Italians were from Sicily and formed the basis of a still strong community here. Impressive churches, the Irish St. John’s in the far north end and St. Sebastian in the south mark the important presence of these two groups in the life of the city.

The 1960s brought construction of Route 9 separating Middletown from the river, and permanently slicing it away from its roots as a key port, but at the same time connecting it to the new interstate highway system. Thus Route 9 reestablished Middletown’s importance as a post-industrial commercial center giving it quick access to and from towns along the lower valley, the Shoreline and I-95, as well as north toward Hartford and I-91. Until the elimination of county government in 1965, Middletown was the county seat and today retains Middlesex Superior Court, the Judicial District and other state offices.

Middletown’s Main Street, historically the region’s retail hub, has not succumbed to 21st century commercial sprawl around its periphery. During much of the post war era shoppers from surrounding towns crowded the street to go to clothiers Herman’s, Esta’s and Camp’s, or attend movies at The Capitol or The Middlesex. During the 70s and 80s, activity on the street sagged as the number of remaining manufacturers dwindled. Storefronts of major retailers like Bunce’s and Wrubels departments stores closed down, leaving the street with an uncertain future.

But in the 90s, the Wesleyan student population grew significantly, spurring a Main Street renaissance with numerous restaurants replacing retail as the key attraction. Along with the restaurants have come unique artistic attractions and music venues. Kid’s City, The Oddfellows Playhouse, The Buttonwood Tree, and most recently, The Green Street Art Center, developed by Wesleyan.

O’Rourkes Diner, a north Main Street institution since 1946, survived a serious fire in August of 2006, largely because of contributions raised by its Wesleyan supporters. Across the Street, Eli Cannon’s Tap Room has been a big attraction since the mid-80s, and the old Arrigoni Hotel has welcomed The Buttonwood Tree, a popular, avant garde performance venue and bookshop. Next door, It’s Only Natural Market, cousin of the acclaimed veggie restaurant, has moved into a new building just south of The Buttonwood Tree. La Boca, a long-running Mexican hangout, has a new neighbor in Nikita’s tavern. Camp’s Clothiers has morphed into The Firehouse Restaurant and sports bar, a nifty two-level hot spot. Calkins Buick dealership has become Luce, which features a contemporary Italian menu. Amato’s Toy Store continues a tradition that started in the 40s, as does Itkin’s Fabrics. At the Middlesex Chamber headquarters they’ve built the largest membership in the state. The large Forbidden City Bistro, an Asian fusion restaurant and Public, an active live-entertainment emporium, have taken the place of the original Bob’s Store that left over a decade ago.

When the new police headquarters was built in 1999, the city stayed in tune with the trend and included two good restaurants, First and Last Tavern and Amici, in the project. Just ahead on College Street, the old Middlesex Movie Theater has been reclaimed as Tuscany Grill. Further south, the historical armory building has been converted into the Inn at Middletown, which offers excellent lodging and a top-notch restaurant.
The momentum continues to draw restaurants and arts attractions and the town has even funded a Main Street guide service. The neighborhoods that stand between the university and city center have gradually filled with college-related enterprises, thus merging the-college-overlooking-the-city with the city center — and Wesleyan students now can use their dining cards at local restaurants.

Across the river, Portland, once part of Middletown, experienced its economic boom in the late 19th century when its quarries employed more than 1,500 workers. Through the later part of the century, Portland brownstone was used extensively in local buildings and shipped by river to Boston, New York, Washington D.C. and San Francisco to be a part of distinctive townhouses and important commercial buildings. Before the quarries fully developed, shipbuilding thrived in the village of Gildersleeve on the river north of the center of town.

By WWI, the brownstone industry was in decline as it competed with concrete in building construction. By then, the Hall and Brainerd quarries had been dug more than 200 feet deep and encompassed over 20 acres. Ground water seepage became a constant problem as the quarries were drilled deeper, and the great flood of 1936 and huge hurricane of ‘38 ended their long history. Recently the Hall quarry has been converted to a remarkable water park and scuba center.

East Hampton adjoins Portland and extends downriver into the Haddams. It was also part of Middletown until the mid-18th century. In the following century it became known as Belltown, USA. Gradually more than 30 companies developed, turning out chimes, gongs and church bells.

Along with bells, East Hampton is best known for Lake Pocotopaug, which became a tourist attraction when trains began arriving in the 1870s. One of the largest inland bodies of water in Connecticut, it attracts boaters, swimmers and fisherman. The Comstock Covered Bridge — the only remaining covered bridge in eastern Connecticut and only surviving enclosed pony truss bridge in the state, spans the Salmon River near Route 16.

Cromwell, next to the river north of Middletown, is separated from the river by seasonally flooded, low-level meadows that stretch along most of its riverfront. Cromwell’s fertile flood plain, beginning in the 1920s with Millane’s, then Pierson’s, became home to large nurseries, large wholesalers of plants, landscape bushes and shrubs, trees and flowers as well.

Over the past 40 years, Cromwell’s location off Routes 9 and 91 attracted commercial development along those highways. But these days its main claim to fame, besides roses, is the PGA’s Travelers Championship, which attracts the top pros. Fondly remembered as the Greater Hartford Open (GHO), the tourney is played on the Tournament Players Club at River Highlands. Located on former nursery land that’s on high ground with gentle slopes overlooking the river, the course was originally the lovely Edgewood, one of the region’s premier clubs in its day. The area surrounding the new course has grown an exclusive residential community with pricey homes surrounding the links.

Al Ferreira Photo